Yeah something is fucky in this release of BBUslicer, it usually opens my file, but will sometimes crash once or twice first. Unfortunately, Bambu P1S so no Orca for me (EndeavourOS / Arch derivative)

When i ordered the p1p to p1s conversion kit for mine it appeared to be hung up in CA forever according to UPS, but one day it was just there. Not sure if its just something flaky with that distribution center or what.

Who wore it better?

All your design work would be outside their software (Fusion, Solidworks, Tinkercad, etc). You would then export to a 3mf (native) or stl and then import that into the slicer program (this is where the “walled garden” starts). That translates it to gcode that the printer then uses, almost like a backwards CNC.

Other things to note regarding filament- if youre only planning on making items for indoor use, PLA / PETG will be fine. If youre planning on using things outdoors or in hot temps, you’ll want to look into more advanced filaments like ABS/ASA, Nylon, etc. These absolutely require an enclosed printer, whether thats part of the design or something you put over top of it to keep the temp inside higher. I’d highly recommend figuring out your ultimate use case and make a decision around that.

Your car has abs? Mines a fat fuck that won’t go to the gym or eat right.

Just wire the knives into the transformer of the microwave

England. Bristol.

Depends on how comfortable youd be with voiding the warranty. There’s a replacement firmware available for the X1C line, and there’s a board replacement for the P1 series that allows you to run klipper instead of the Bambu firmware. Fwiw, I couldn’t care less (at least for now) about having to run their slicer, its good enough, for Arch based distros you can install from the AUR and for others, at least Debian/ variants there are flatpacks

Also something to consider, the average size of what you’ll be printing. Yes, you can make things in multiple pieces, however if youre constantly printing parts that dont fit the “standard” ~250mm cube you may want to look at the larger format printers

I hate you for this

Stretched / worn / missing tooth on z-belt?

Get ‘em at the gettin’ spot

It’s sending personal info to Microsoft for marketing purposes

I’ve seen that. Cringeworthy.

Your plan A shouldn’t be plan B. It should be plan C or D. Although the D would be why you’re taking plan B. So maybe plan B or C. But I guess it’s called plan B. I guess you don’t have to read this post now.

I laughed way harder at this than I should have

I had this happen on my p1s with a roll of Inland pla, but not with a roll of their pla +, I also noticed my nozzle was worn (who knew that after 850 hours you should probably replace it). Haven’t gone back to the normal pla yet, but those might be things to look at?

Portal gun

Can’t recommend a filament dryer enough, this is a great tip. The AMS itself helps keep your filament more dry longer than being exposed to the elements, but you really should consider a good dryer.

As far as nozzles go, mind the filaments you plan to use with them, as a .2 nozzle is way more likely to clog with “filled” filaments, but if you’re printing non abrasive, non filled filaments and you want the extra detail you can’t beat a .2 - i purchased the CMYK lithophane kit and the detail with the smaller nozzle makes them almost photo quality. The great part is, though, bambu nozzles are far simpler to change than most other printers. If you plan on swapping them often, I’d recommend printing the cable/connector removal tools as the connectors can be a bit fiddly.